The ferry to Nuweiba was quite odd. Even though the ferry was full of Egyptian people, we felt like being in Europe. Until 2004 the boat was going between Larvik, Norway and Frederikshavn, Denmark and apart from a desk for the passport control and the plastic foil on the carpets they haven’t changed anything. Not even the Norway posters in the frames.
Due to the information we had we expected a total nightmare of paperwork and long waiting hours to get into Egypt. We arrived at 2.30 at night in Nuweiba and got help from a friendly man from the tourist police who guided us through to all different counters. After 4 hours we were through customs without any stress. We were very happy! Our advantage was that we arrived at night so it was not busy at all – and it was off season.
Our further route will lead us across Sinai to Suez, Hurghada, Luxor and Aswan.
Sandstorm on Sinai.
Since the bombing in Luxor a couple of years ago there are police checks and guarded convoys for tourist busses and cars. Everywhere the police tell you how dangerous the country is and that it is too dangerous to drive alone. How can it be dangerous, when there is police officer standing with his machine gun every two km? On Sinai there is almost no one living and the Egyptian people are very friendly!
The reason for the check points is something else. They can’t be taken away because there are so many people working in this system. All the checkpoints and controls should have been stopped and taken away three years ago! But, what do you do with all the unemployed police officers then?!
Therefore, as in our case, it can happen that you will get a police escort for 1 km with six men inside the police car or you get a police man into your car who doesn’t even know how to use his AK47. I think I then rather go without protection. Beside those two times we always could convince the police that we don’t need and escort or convoy and that Egypt is safe.
I am not keen on driving in a convoy, who goes three times a day including 30-40 busses and cars and that drives with 120km/h through the country. First, we can’t drive that fast, second, it is irresponsible on these roads and third, if someone is looking for a bombing target, here it is.
Even on Camp grounds you are very safe.
The very famous Valley of the Kings is a must for everyone coming to Luxor. But, after having paid 7 € per person you are only allowed to see 3 of the many tombs on the site. The tomb of Tutankhamen is another 10 €! Inside the tombs it is not allowed to take pictures even though on the signs outside it just says ”no flash photography”. A discussion with the guard is useless.
The paintings and carvings inside are ”sold” as original even though you can see the fresh cement on the walls and the marker lines drawn with a ruler. The picture and the expectations you have of these places are turning into a real disappointment. The spirit is gone. It is sad, but I think next time I will rather buy a book.
Passenger ferry across the Nile in Luxor.
The ferry from Aswan to Wadi Halfa is more or less the only connection to enter east Africa from the north. The other route would be across Saudi, but it is almost impossible to get a visa – and so it was for us. So we had no other choice than to take the expensive way across Lake Nasser.
The moment you see the passenger ship and the barge where your car will go with, you instantly think that you actually should get money for this. Instead you have to pay 2452EP (about 370,-€) for your vehicle and 383EP (60,-€) per person – first class of course. We had to be at the ferry at nine in the morning which finally left six in the evening. The paper work was fairly quick but until we could get the cars on we had to wait and drink and wait and eat. The embarking of all the goods like oranges, cement, fridges it was like an ant’s home. We always tried to get the system, but there was none – and they do this every week. It would be interesting to know how many fridges are actually working at the end.
Such ferries you usually imagine as totally crowded, dirty and not very far from becoming a new home for fish and corals. Our ship wasn’t very far from that kind, and we were quite happy to get off, when after 17 hours the night and the crossing were over. I just can say that it was an experience of my lifetime.
Waiting for the ferry in Aswan .
Workers loading the ferry and the barge .
Finally we can get our vehicles on the barge.
Our cars are firmly tight up between frigdes, oranges, rice and other luggage.
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